November 3 & 4: Cobh to Tralee to Shannon

We left Cobh and worked our way over to Tralee. We did not take the scenic route over, because I really wanted to drive the Dingle Peninsula and figured that we would have enough time in the afternoon.

A glitch with the cell phone (turns out that the unlimited talk and text is ONLY to other Vodafone phones, so we ran out of credits to call our hotels). This was an issue, as we had to call our B & B to get the address the day of our arrival. We took care of the phone, and then got to the B&B.

Something happened when we made the reservation, and it went through for only one person. We have been trying to keep our lodging for this leg of the trip at $50 – $60 per night, which when you split it two ways is very reasonable. She wanted $85 because there were two of us. She was very nice about it, it was a miscommunication, but we did not want to pay that much. We cancelled the reservation through Expedia, and found a hotel that offered twin beds (which she was unable to do) and breakfast for $69. For short notice on a busy Friday night, we were fortunate to find it. 

By the time we sorted it all out, it was too late to enjoy the drive in daylight, so we really didn’t see or do anything on the 3rd.

On the 4th, we set out early for the Dingle Peninsula. I have often heard it is the most beautiful drive in Ireland, and it did not disappoint! We had a couple of spots of mist and rain, but most of the time that we wanted to explore, we had dry weather and blue(ish) skies.

We stopped several times to take photos; on one of our stops we came upon the beach where they filmed some of the scenes for Far and Away in 1992. It starred Nicole Kidman and Tom Cruise, and there is a plaque on the beach commemorating the scene.

We saw the Gallarus Oratory, which is a stone beehive hut (clochan) that is over 1200 years old. It was likely used as a place of prayer, and was built with stone only, no mortar. In spite of its age and lack of mortar, it remains waterproof. Amazing!

We next visited Kilmarkedar Church, which is a ruin of a Romanesque church from the first half of the 12th century. There is an alphabet stone and an old sundial stone there, as well as a graveyard. Some of the graves are within the last 20 years or so, so it is a living cemetery.

We finished the day at Durty Nelly’s, a well-known pub in Shannon. Dinner was good, and we are now ensconced in our hotel room,  planning on what we want to see and do tomorrow.

Scenes from our drive around the peninsula . . . 

The town of Dingle . . . 

Stained glass from a small church on the side of the road . . . 

The beach where they filmed Far and Away . . . the wind was ferocious today, so you can see the size of the waves. It reminds me of the Black Rocks in Marquette, Michigan when Superior decides to show her brawn!

The Gallarus Oratory, and Kilmalkedar Church

Scenes from Connor Pass, as you drive over the mountain on the peninsula . . . 


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