October 20: Florence

Lessons learned yesterday made for a smooth day today. 

We love where we are staying, and the fact that for 8 days we will not need to haul our luggage (three carry-on sized bags between us, not a lot, but still a pain when you have to go up and down stairs, etc). The trade-off, however, is that when it takes every bit of three hours to get to Florence, and three hours to get back, you just don’t have as much time as you would like to see everything. So, we chose what we really wanted to do, and are already planning on a someday return trip to see more.

We prepurchased our tickets for the Ufizzi online, and were able to avoid the lines. Florence, Italy, is the home of the Renaissance, and no family played a greater role than the Medici.

The Ufizze Gallery is housed in what served as their business offices for several generations. It is located right on the Arno River, and much of the art was collected or commissioned by the family in their lifetime.

We got there a bit early, and enjoyed walking around outside and seeing and photographing the some of the exterior sculptures, including a replica of David by Michaelangelo. The original is in the Academia, and we did not have time to go there.

We toured the Ufizzi, enjoying art by so many of the masters of the Renaissance inside. After we finished, we crossed the Arno on the Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge). This bridge is very old, beautiful, and historic. In fact, when the Nazis were retreating at the end of WWII, they found it to be such a beautiful bridge that they did not destroy it. It was the only bridge over the Arno in Florence to survive the war.

We walked along and went up to the Pitti Palace, where the Medici family actually lived. It is huge. I can’t imagine living in a house that big. We did not have time to go in and explore, that will be another trip.

We got in our 16,000 steps (and then some), so we stopped to get a gelatto on the way back. I got the smallest size that they had, and mixed caramel and hazelnut flavors. Between this gelato and that which I had in Como, I’d say it’s a tie.  I’ll probably say that for everywhere, lol. 

We stopped for a few groceries here in town, and come home and had a nice quiet dinner. We had wanted to go over to see the coast tomorrow, but we have our Eurail passes already paid, and want to use them instead of paying to take a bus somewhere. There is no direct route, the closest is 4 hours away, so rather than have 8 hours of travel for 2 hours of fun, we instead will be going to the Medievel City of San Gemignano tomorrow.

The replica of the David by Michaelangelo

Some of the many sculptures on the loggia outside of the museum

The clock tower on the Palazzio Vecchio (Old Palace). This was also part of the Medici complex. The fencing you see in the bottom left corner is there to provide cover as they restore a fountain on the Piazza.

Ceilings . . . always ceilings. This is one of the statuary halls. This museum is known as much for its sculpture collection as it is for its art. The sculpture halls have the rooms of art going off of each side all the way around the U-shaped building.

Botticelli’s “Birth of Venus”. I have always loved this painting.

This was one of the private rooms of Lorenzo Medici, and is being restored.  Imagine having this art surrounding you every day in your office.

I had never heard of Filippino Lippi before, but he is a new find that I will look for in museums in the future. I most likely have seen art by him before, but just didn’t remember the name. I loved this painting.

An ancient coffin. Imagine being buried in something like this!

A painting by Michaelangelo. This was a commission, and serves two purposes. It is liturgical (religious) art, but also a family portrait. The man who commissioned the painting is depicted here as Joseph, his wife and son as Mary and Jesus. This was very common back then.

A painting by Da Vinci.

The Ponte Vecchio on the right 

The Pitti Palace

Each window has a lion beneath it; each lion is unique.

When parking is an issue, you just stack the cars.

Mmmmmmmm . . .


October 19: Florence (subtitle: “A Good but trying and sobering day”)

Sometimes, when you travel, you have “learning days”, otherwise known as days when a lot goes sideways.  Today was one of those days.

Last night we checked the prices on bus tickets to Assisi; round trip for the two of us: €31. We have been unable to log on to free Wi-Fi when we are out and about, as it requires you to provide a local phone number and then put the code in that they text you. We would have had to access Wi-Fi to use the online tickets, so we figured we would buy them right at the bus station. We were up and out the door by a little before 6 AM.

We got to the bus station; the ticket office opened at 7:15, our bus (the ONLY bus to Assisi of the day from here) was to leave at 7:30. We went into a small convenience store in the station that also sold bus tickets. He told us it would be €33 to go there, and another amount to come home.  We also could not use our credit card. I figured he had to mark up the tickets to make a profit, so we waited for the official bus ticket office to open. When it did, we were the first in line.  We told them we wanted to go to Assisi today, and come back tonight.  Not possible, he said. Turns out they only sell overnight tickets on another bus line. So, back to the convenience store. By now, the tickets had gone up to €39 to get there, and another 40+ to get home. He explained that the closer to the departure it got, the more expensive they got. I know that MegaBus operates the same way in the US, so that made sense. We bought tickets for Monday (the next day we could get reasonably priced round trip tickets), and headed back to the B&B. 

Our alternate plan had to be to go to Florence, but since we had not planned on that, we did not have our Eurail passes or our passports with us. We got back at 8:30, had breakfast, and headed back to Siena AGAIN. (lots of wasted bus fare)

We caught the train to Florence, and arrived a little after noon. We went first to the Duomo. The entrance was free, which was surprising to us. The exterior is one of the most elaborate we have seen thus far. It was designed in 1296, and finally consecrated in 1436. It is described in one of the guidebooks as “the central achievement of Renaissance architecture”. It is a huge complex, with design and color everywhere you look.  We took some photos, had a bite to eat, and went in. We could immediately see why it was free. Although it was nice inside, it is sparse compared to so many others. There is very little that is on public display, very little stained glass, and you are in and out in about 10 minutes. The exterior is the draw, and you can’t charge people to look at the outside.

We next decided to go to San Croce, which is the place where many Renaissance well-knowns are buried: Galileo, Michaelangelo, Macchiavelli, and Rossini, just to name a few. On the way, we passed a monastery of the Monastic Order of Jerusalem, and went in for a peek.

We finally arrived at San Croce, and once inside, decided to look for the bathroom. It was out in the cloister area, so we headed there, and since we were alread out there, decided to see that part first and finish on the inside.

Sometimes when you travel, bad things happen, either to you or to others. I have debated all afternoon how to write this blog post, as there is a fine line sometimes between being informative, and being voyeuristic. This story is all over the European news tonight, so am going to cover it briefly here. As I was beginning to photograph and explore inside, Kelly came over and advised me not to go to a certain area, as they had paramedics working on someone to try to revive them. After a few minutes, they announced that the church was closed. They ushered us out, and we knew that he did not survive. On the way out, they handed everyone a free voucher to visit another day.

I had seen a place that I wanted to take photos of outside, and was working on that. Kelly finally came out; she had been listening to another American tourist describing what had happened.  It turns out a piece of plaster fell off of a support beam 66 feet up (a square about 6″ x 6″), and hit him in the head. He went down immediately.  He was a Spanish tourist, 52 years old, visiting with his wife. I saw the hearse come to remove him. 

If we hadn’t gone to the bathroom . . . if we had decided to go to Florence in the first place . . . if if if. It could easily have been either one of us who was there when the block fell. We are very sad, and very grateful that someone was watching over us. If you are praying people, please say a prayer for his wife and family.

We headed back to the train station, and caught our return train with five minutes to spare. Once back in Siena, we hopped on the first bus that would take us to the main square, where we catch another bus that takes us to the B&B. Only, it turns out that this particular bus winds aaaaalllllllllll around Siena before doing so. It was very crowded when we got on, and we could not validate our bus ticket. The ticket inspector happened to choose this bus to inspect all of the tickets (they do this randomly throughout the day; this was the first time we had been inspected). When we explained what had happened, he could not get to the ticket validator either, so he made a tear in each of the tickets. 40 minutes later, we were STILL on the bus, waiting for our stop. Another ticket inspector got on, and it took a lot of explaining and kindness on his part not to fine us the €42 fine EACHfor not validating our tickets. (Once validated, they are only good for one hour, then they are null and void).

We arrived home, tired, sad, and hungry. After a nice dinner at the house, we are wrapping up today, and preparing for tomorrow. We bought tickets online (they printed them out for us here at the B&B), and will be visiting the Ufizzi Gallery tomorrow, along with either the Palazzio Vecchio or the Pitti Palace, or both if time permits.

The exterior of the Duomo in Florence.

Photos of the interior . . . 

I love the aquamarine color in these stained glass windows!  So unique, I haven’t seen this color used in this way quite so much elsewhere.

This was the ceiling inside of the dome, all done in frescoes.

Photos of the Jerusalem Monastic Order house/church . . . 

This ceiling is all hand carved wood.

The exterior of San Croce . . . 

Photos from the Cloister and chapels outside . . . 

Out of respect, I will not be sharing any of the few photos that I had started taking inside. Tomorrow,  more Florence, more art!

October 18: San Rocco de Pilli

Today was a relax at “home” day. It was also Kelly’s birthday! So, rather than write a long post, I will just share a few narrated pics.

There is a local church, and we have wanted to check it out. It is still in use (a “working” church), and that is obvious when you walk in. This is a place where people gather and worship on Sundays. It is small, but enchanting. On the way in, we went through the olive orchard. The olives are still on the trees, and we wondered how they would taste. Based on the look on Kelly’s face, they are awful straight from the tree.

There is a lot of schiacciato painting in the church, a technique made famous by Donatello. It is a way of painting on a flat surface that makes it look like you have great depth. 

The olive trees

The interior . . . remember that all surfaces are flat.

We stopped by a little pasticeria (bakery) for an afternoon treat. I told myself that I would only have a treat when I walked at least 16,000 steps in a day. As today was a slow day, I owe myself about 15,000 steps. In my defense, I only had a few bites, but it was delicious!

Another Tuscan sunset. The trees that you see are called palm pines. They grow this way, with a long long trunk, and then branches and needles only at the top.

Tonight was dinner at home, and planning. Tomorrow will be a visit to Assissi. We will have to be up at 5:30 in the am to catch the ONLY bus that goes from here to there, but it will be worth it. Tomorrow night we will get back too late for the last bus home, so we will be coming by taxi. Expensive day, but very much looking forward to it! May or may not have time and energy to write a post tomorrow night after I get back. Friday will be Florence. Arrivaderci for now!

October 17: Siena

After a WONDERFUL breakfast here, we caught the bus into Siena for the day. We knew we wanted to see the Duomo, and weren’t sure what else. Siena is built on a hill, and I just can’t do hills like I used to be able to. A combination of being out of shape and three and a half years straight of chemo, and stairs and climbing now take a lot out of me.

Once we arrived, we tried to get money out of an ATM. One of the cards that we have with us does not have a chip, and the money is in a savings account back home. Between those two complications, it has been hard to get money out. (I only mention this in case anyone is reading this blog in preparation for a trip here. You need to know this.)

On our walk to the Duomo, we came across the church San Domenico. Admission is free, so we went in to look around. The church was built in 1226 in honor of Saint Catherine. It is not a particularly large church, and the exterior is very plain. However, inside is the morbidly fascinating preserved thumb and head of Catherine (authenticated, they say). I think it is pretty cool that someone who died over 800 years ago is giving a thumbs up for eternity.

We started to walk to the Duomo, but it is on the top of a high hill. We got information on which bus to take. When the bus stopped, he told us to take the “escalera electrica” (esclator), and refused to let us on the bus. I got a bit frustrated, had a moment of feeling sorry for myself, and then found the escalator and we took it up. It was actually a series of escalators, and was a great way to get up. Frustration over. When we got to the Duomo, of course there is the moment of first sight that takes your breath away. We rested, took pics of the exterior, had a snack, bought our tickets, and went in. The Duomo was built between 1215 and 1263, and is Gothic in archtecture. Grand plans were made in the 1300’s to add on and make it the “largest cathedral in Christendom”. Sadly, the Black Death of 1348 killed 2 out of every 3 people in Siena. The town never recovered and never became the city that planners had dreamed of.

The interior of the church is done in white and greenish-black marble, the official colors of Siena (long story, look it up). It is darker, not doing much with the use of natural light that was done so well at the Duomo in Como. However, the artwork is hard to beat. Works by Donatello, Bernini, and Michaelangelo are found alongside other well-known Italian artists. On the floor are 59 panels/works of art as well. In order to make the floor as visible as possible, most of the pews have been removed. Inside of the Doumo is a single room library, which houses manuscripts that were done by hand over 600 years ago. The walls and ceiling in that room are also spectacular!

After leaving the Duomo, we had a bite to eat at a bakery on the plaza, and headed back down to the Piazza (Plaza) del Campo. There is a lovely fountain there, and a four-columned square structure called the Capella della Piazza. It was built in thanks for the end of the Plague of 348, and also with the hopes that it might never return.

We sampled some amazing pestos and treats in a store, and finally arrived at our bus. No need for a bus or escalator after the Duomo; it was all (mostly) downhill.

We stopped by the supermarket and picked up a few items for dinner. We have begun planning the rest of our days here, with Florence next in our sights. We have been told and have found in our research that purchasing tickets ahead for the Ufizzi Gallery will save a lot of time, and there are no tickets left for tomorrow, so tomorrow will be a local day, with planning and ticket-buying to flesh out the rest of our time in Italy.

Saint Catherine’s head (full disclosure: these are not my photographs; they do not allow photography inside, so I bought postcards and took photos of the postcards). The top photo is of the altar. The bottom is a detail of the part of the altar that contains her mummified head.

The Duomo’s front exterior:

Scenes from inside:

This is a one of the ceilings inside. The middle is referred to as the “Occulus”, or eye.

One of the floor art panels.

One of many Popes interred here.  This was Alexander III.

The bottom four sculptures are by Michaelangelo

One of the manuscripts in the library. There are many pages, and each page is easily at least 12″ x 24″ large.

The ceiling in the library

A mosaic in the Chigi Chapel; this chapel was designed by Bernini.  Each piece of the mosaic (which is taller than I am) is about the size of a fingernail. 

Here you can see the black and white design on the inside

Motorcycles, motorcycles, motorcycles.  There is not much parking in the city, so many people drive in to work on a cycle, and this is one of the main parking areas.

A perfect ending to a great day!

 October 16: Milan to San Rocco a Pilli (just outside of Siena)

Today was a travel day, so this will be a fairly short post.

When planning the trip, we decided that the way to go would be to find a centrally located place, and venture out and back each day.  This way, we are not hauling suitcases, finding our way to lodgings, etc. So, I looked on Hostelworld, and found this B & B. It is just outside of Siena. 

This morning, we arranged for a taxi to take us to the bus station. It would have been €3 to take the subway, it was €7 to take a taxi.  We got there a lot sooner, and didn’t have to haul the luggage up and down the stairs in the metro. We caught our first train there. We had assigned seating, which was nice.  We didn’t have to worry about standing. The problem is that we assumed it was like airplane seating.  I looked at my seat, 11C, and assumed that Kelly and I would be next to each other. Turns out we should have been across from each other, which might explain why the two women across from us, friends from Switzerland, were a bit confused.  They had arranged tickets so they could each sit by a window, and were too polite to say anything.  When we realized our mistake towards the end of the ride, we apologized. They were very nice about it.

We had 11 minutes to change trains in Florence; we arrived a couple of minutes ahead of schedule, and were standing by the doors with our luggage when they opened. We made it with a few minutes to spare.

The second train did not have assigned seating, but there were plenty of seats available, so no standing.  We were fortunate to be seated across from an artist from Olympia Washington, and she knew a lot of history of the area. We talked most of the way there.  She said that there are so many farms and villas that now sit empty. The young people moved away and had no interest in running the farm, so the older generation bequeathed it to the Catholic church. The church has no interest in doing anything with them, so they sit empty. Very sad . . . 

We arrived in Siena, and set out to get to our B & B by bus(es). The first bus we had no issues buying the tickets, but had MANY issues finding where to catch the bus.  When we finally found it after looking for 20 minutes.  It was another 20 minute wait for the bus to come. We told the driver where we needed to go, he said he would let us know when we got there. He didn’t, but luckily we recognized when we got there and were able to get off.  We bought the tickets for the next bus, and had about a 40 minute wait for it. 

A side note here . . . you may wonder how we knew which buses etc. The B & B had clear directions on their website, we took a screen shot of them (as we don’t have  data on our phones here; we use wi fi when we find it). When we caught the second bus, we were able to follow their directions and arrived with no problems.  We paid a total of €5.60, but a taxi would have cost us €20, so we were happy to save the money.  We did decide, however, that we would invest in the taxi on our way out when we leave with our luggage to save the time and headaches.

Travel days are always a little frustrating for us, so we were very relieved to arrive.  The villa more than makes up for the hassle! It is exactly what I would have hoped for. This is a working farm that has 220 hectares, and has been in the same family for 9 generations. Our room is lovely, and this time we have an ensuite (bathroom within the room as opposed to a shared bathroom). 

We got situated, took a couple of photos, and by this time it was after 6 pm. Tired and hungry, we headed out in search of food. The town square is only a few blocks away. I was in no mood to do any extensive grocery shopping, and I did not want to have to come back here and prepare food, so we bought a few necessities and went to a restaurant.  We had bread with olive oil, salads, and I had parpadelle (flat pasta) with wild boar sauce. It was yummy! 

Now we are relaxing in the room, with window open and ceiling fan on, getting the room nice and cool for sleeping tonight. Tomorrow, we are headed back in to Sienna, as it is nearby and will only be a very short bus ride.

So, maybe the post was longer than I thought, lol, but keeping it real, folks.

Our room, and the view from our room . . . 

October 15th: Lake Como

One of the things that I miss most about living in Mexico are Sunday afternoons.  Families go out together, spend the day in parks, relaxing, and just being in public spaces. I saw more of that when I was in Spain on the Camino a few years back, and I got another great dose of it today.  I think that a Sunday afternoon at Lake Como might just be one of my new favorite things.

We headed to the train station a little later than we hoped; both of us have had issues sleeping because of not being able to get the room cool enough at night.  The room is warm, so we open the window to cool it down.  But, there are mosquitos, so we have to cover up to avoid being bitten.  I have only had about four hours of sleep each night for the last few nights, so Kelly woke me up a little later than we planned this morning to let me get a little more shut eye.

So, after a late breakfast, we headed to Milano Centrale. We wanted to do two things: get our tickets to take the train to Como today, and arrange tickets with our Eurail pass tomorrow to head to Siena. Once again, wait wait wait, lol.  We got in line to get a number to get in line.  After about 45 minutes, we got to the window.  The lady spoke a bit of English, so between my ruddy Italian and her adequate English, we got things done. We only had a few minutes to catch our train for Como, and as we approached the platform at a fast walk/slow run, the train pulled away.  

We went back into the station to have a bite. Our tickets were valid for four hours, so we took the next train, which left an hour after the one we missed.  There is a small machine on each platform where you have to validate your tickets, and we hadn’t done it for the train we missed, so maybe it is just as well.  We thought it would take 90 minutes to get to Como, but it was more like 30.

On arrival, we headed out on foot to explore.  We made our way down to the main square, and visited the Duomo there.  Oh. My. Goodness.  It is not as big as many of the churches that we have visited, but when I walked in, it was so awe inspiring that all I could do was turn in a circle, say wow wow wow, and try to decide what to look at/photograph first. 

The duomo was built over a period from 1396 to 1740. Unlike the duomo in Milan, it incorporates the different styles that came and went during this time frame.  Instead of being disjointed, however, as can sometimes be the case, the church’s informational folder says “the architecture of the Duomo is a masterpiece of harmonic mixture of all of the histrical periods in which it was built”.  Included are Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque elements. It certainly looked seamless to me!

I have a new cell phone, and today I was able to give its camera a proper workout.  I have to say that I am really impressed!  All of the photos that I include here in the blog, in all posts from the trip thus far including today, were taken with my cell phone.

After the visit to the Duomo, we chose to walk. And walk, and walk some more.  I told myself before the trip that only on days that I walked at least 16,000 steps would I be able to give myself a treat. The other day I had more than that, but my stomach felt too wonky to enjoy anything.  Today, I had 15,000 and change, so I “borrowed” a few steps from the other day, and treated myself to a small gelato.  Chocolate hazelnut, and worth every penny!

We walked down along the lakeside, enjoying the many families, dogs, and entertainers who were out. There was an older man who was playing the accordian on a park bench.  I took his photo, and then threw a coin in his accordian case.  He stopped playing and wanted to see the photo, he was just so tickled that I had taken it.  On our way back through, I smiled and waved.  He stopped playing again and called me over, and told me to take his photo again, and had me show it to his friend.  I wish I spoke more Italian so that I could have visited with him for a few minutes.  I love meeting locals and talking; you never know what someone’s story is until you sit down with them and begin a conversation.

We got back to the train station, and caught our return train with no problems. We were beat. There were more people than seats on the return trip (as there were  on the trip there), but this time we were among the people standing.  By the time we got back to Milan, the calves and the feet were letting me know exactly what they thought of standing for 40 minutes on the trip home.

Tired and hungry, we ate our first meal out here in Milan; well, kind of.  We bought an authentic Milanese pizza and took it to our B&B to enjoy for dinner. The room is nice and cool, as we finally figured out the ceiling fan (hidden remote control) and left it running all day. We have packed as much as we can tonight in preparation for the train ride tomorrow. Hoping for a good night’s sleep, and an uneventful travel day ahead.

Photos from the train station: note the Rubik’s Cube type packaging in the Lindor Chocolate kiosk in the station, as well as the tile work on the wall.

Photos from the Duomo: there is a stained glass window at the front, and when the light begins to go down at the end of the afternoon, it bathes the interior in swaths of color that move from the back to the front of the church as the sun goes further down.

My accordian player

Other scenes from the day

And, finally . . . 

Milan, October 14th

Over the years, we have learned the art of travelling light(er).  This time around, we each have one small carry on, and one small carry on sized checked bag between the two of us. This trip was a bit more challenging. As we planned  for this trip, one of the things we did, as always, was look at average temps for the places we would be. Average temps for Milan for this time of year are in the low 60’s during the day, and high 40’s – low 50’s at night.  Two days before the trip, we pulled up a forecast.  The whole time we are in Italy, it is forecasted to be in the mid to high 70’s every single day.  So, instead of all of the long sleeve shirts and long pants, we had to add in some warmer weather clothes for the front half of the trip.

I am not complaining, the weather is beautiful, but the suitcases are a little fuller than we normally make them.

So, on to our day.  We had a wonderful breakfast at the B & B, and then headed out mid-morning to see the Duomo. In days gone by, we could be up at the butt crack of dawn and go for 12 hours straight.  Those days, at least for now, are behind me.  

Milan’s Duomo is the largest Gothic Cathedral, the second largest cathedral, and third largest church in the world.  It has seating for 40,000 people, and was built between 1386 and 1813.  Many cathedrals built during that time frame show different styles in the same construction, having Gothic, Romanesque, and other features as new styles came and went.  The architects and builders of the Duomo stuck with Gothic with a discipline rarely found in other constructions.

When we arrived, we explored the Piazza (Plaza, or town square) a bit.  There is a shopping area called the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuelle II, which was built in the 1800’s.  One of the features was built from new technology available back then: steel reinforced glass ceilings that came about as a a result of the industrial age. It was just beautiful! Every area, every detail, was taken into account in the planning and construction.  The floors, walls, ceilings, etc. One of my favorite things I have seen. Yesterday, I was not overly impressed with Milan. Today, I feel the opposite.

Once we were done checking out that area, we headed over to get tickets for our visit to the Duomo.  I chose the €16 option which included an elevator ride up to the roof; Kelly chose the €3 option which was basically just the cathedral.  Each ticket also included a visit to a second small church and an attached museum, we just got tired and decided to move on to the next item on our list after the Duomo.

A note about buying the tickets: we had to take a number to get in line to buy the tickets.  Our number was 619; when we checked the board, they were working on person number 538.  Almost a hundred people in front of us to wait on.  There was a self-serve machine which might have been a little quicker, but judging by the line there as well, not by much.  Turns out if we had done a little research ahead of time, we could have bought them online and saved ourselves almost an hour.

I went to get in line for the elevator up to the roof . . . another hour of waiting.  At least there were entertainers in the piazza to take our minds off the fact that we were waiting . . . waiting . . . waiting . . . There were Incas playing the pan flute, with their (fake) alpaca right next to them.  There were transformers, Native American performers, bubble artists, singers, etc.  Never a dull moment.  It was an amazing place for people watching!

After about an hour in line for the elevator, I got to go up. Even though I took the elevator, there were still a couple of landings of stairs to go up.  They were narrow and winding, and as we were going up, others were coming down.  Very very close quarters, lol!

I took the stairs down when I finished, as the line for the elevator to go down was almost as long as it was to take it up.  Kelly and I got in line to go into the cathedral.  Earlier the line had been at least an hour and a half long.  Luckily, it had thinned, and we were in line only for about 20 minutes.

We have been to many many cathedrals, but still managed to be VERY impressed by this one. Below you will see many photos taken on the inside. One of the most impactful areas is the statue of Saint Bartholomew.  At the end of his life, he was flayed alive.  The sculptor chose to represent him with his skin flayed, but slung over his shoulder like a cloak, or a bag of potatoes.  Gruesome, but fascinating at the same time.

We headed out in the late afternoon to our final destination of the day: Saint Ambrose church.  I know it seems that we visit a lot of churches, but neither of us is particularly religious. We both enjoy art, history, and architecture, and when you are in Europe, that means cathedrals. It is always interesting to me how an old church feels. Sometimes, it feels like a beautiful building but not much else.  Other places seem to have a more sacred feel to me. The more monetized a church is and the more tourism there is, the less it seems to feel like a sacred space.  However, almost every time, I find myself seeking out a spot that feels special to take a knee (or two) and say a prayer.  Today was no exception.

So, St. Ambrose. This church dates back to medieval times. There were only two stained glass windows, all the rest were clear.  It did not have the transept that many churches have, and has been restored over the years.  It was founded by St. Ambrose in 379 AD, and there are still parts of the original structure inside.  He is buried inside, along with two martyrs that he originally buried in his lifetime.  Now they rest together.

After a quick stop at the supermarket to get lettuce for our salad/chicken dinner tonight, we headed into the subway.  We finally figured out our exit, and got it right on the first try tonight.  Progress is good!

We had a nice dinner, and plan an early bedtime, as we want to be up and out of here fairly early tomorrow to explore the area north of Milan known as “The Lakes” region.  This area includes Lake Como, so we are hoping to see George Clooney out and about tomorrow. Just kidding . . . kind of.

Our breakfast set up this morning here at the B & B

Photos from the Galleria . . . 

Photos from the Duomo . . . 

Images from St. Ambrose . . . 

St Ambrose is in the white in the middle